Back to Annapurna Circuit after 28 years

 

Halperin, his daughter and their guide passing beautiful waterfall of Manang.

After following the old trekking trail of Annapurna Circuit, I stepped on the first village of Manang named Tal. I was enchanted by the beauty of Manang. In fact Manang took my heart away.

On the way I met an Israeli man named Halperin and his daughter along with his trekking guide Subash Shrestha. They were also hitting the same trekking trail.

At the first sight of Tal village, 51 years old Halperin became thoughtful. He flashbacks the memory of 28 years back Annapurna Circuit Trek with his girlfriend.

He shares 28 years back Tal village in his own words with his daughter as, "At that time there were no concrete buildings as present. Only small tea houses with thatched roofs were providing lodging and fooding to the trekkers. We had spent our fourth night at this beautiful village after our four whole days trek from Besisahar, Lamjung."

Halperin posing in front of Tal village, Manang in 1994 A.D.

Beautiful waterfalls, artistic hills and breathtaking landscape at the back of the village seem the same. Only the physical structure of the village was changed. Motorable road has extended till the village.

Military service is compulsory for the majority of Israelis when they turn 18. Men have to serve 32 months while 24 months in case of women. According to the same national law Halperin also had joined the military from age 18 to 21. In addition, he had served an extra 2 years for the country. In total he had spent 5 years in military service. So, he thought of having a long vacation. His girlfriend also quitted her job and wished to join him. They came with one idea, travelling the world for two years together.

At their time there were neither smartphones nor social media like youtube and facebook which could insantly provide the informations of the whole world. Only the option travellers could rely on were the books. He also got a travel book published by 'Lonely Planet' where he read about the country Nepal. Before it neither he had heard about a country named Nepal nor read about Nepal. After going through that book they came up with a plan to visit Nepal as the first country on their world tour.

After arriving at Kathmandu, Nepal they made further plans where to explore during two months stay in Nepal. Annapurna Circuit Trek was quite popular among the foreigners at that time. So, they came up with a trekking plan for a month around Annapurna.

Accordingly, the next day after arriving in Kathmandu they took a bus to Besisahar.  The road had ended at Besisahar. So, they started their trek directly from Besisahar the next day.

"In 1994 A.D. the drive from Kathmandu to Besisahar was more challenging but quite adventurous", Halperin adds, " In fact Besisahar wasn't 'sahar' or huge city as today. There were no multi storied buildings and well facilitated hotels. Only there were thatched roof tea houses with sparse settlements. we didn't find any toilets and bathrooms even in Besisahar at that time. There were even limited dishes on the menu : Dal bhat, tea and some items for the breakfast. We could have chapati and curry for breakfast everyday."

At that time the road had ended at Besisahar. So, the trekking trail was neither dusty nor full of black smokes from the vehicles. The whole trekking trail was unspoiled and pristine. There was no disturbance on trekking by the vehicles. Only trekkers were encountered with the horses and mules heading to Manang.

That was the time when there were no mobile phones for capturing photos and videos. But still he had brought his old camera during that visit. Sounds different but he has those photos safe in his cell phone till date.

He showed me those photos back from 1994 during our lunch time. Even at present he had memorized those places where he had captured those photos and he used to compare the changes that occurred in the last 28 years time. With excitement he shared that the 'Welcome Gate' to Manang was still the same.

Time changed. With time most of the aspects got changed. He found changes in people's lifestyle, living standard and economic status but the Nepalese hospitality and warmness for the guest was praiseworthy. Nepalese happy and smiley faces and warm gestures with guests took away his heart.

Expansion of roads lead in constriction of trekking trails :

Along with time, peoples needs changed. At present most of the remote villages are connected with the roads. Not only roads arrived in villages, people are connecting each house with the road. In other words, 'Road to Door' is quite prominent in the context of present Nepal. Ultimately it has resulted in the huge destruction of the forest, cultivable lands and the environment. Excavators have converted beautiful hills, river sides and forests into motorable roads. At present, the road from Besisahar Lamjung has extended to Khangsar of Manang.

Trekker trekking on the dusty road enroute Annapurna Circuit Trek (ACT)

When trekking flourished in Annapurna Circuit, locals started small tea houses and guest houses along the trails. Slowly with time, in different places small settlements got established. For their comfort, they transformed stone paved trails into motorable roads. The trails where trekkers used to trek are now displaced by jeeps and cars with smoky engines. Rest points 'Chautaris' where trekkers and porters used to rest and have water breaks are no more now. In some places concrete rest stations are made. Seeing all these drastic changes in the last three decades, Halperin got disappointed.

Expansion of roads not only reduced the numbers of trekking days but it also impacted negatively on the business of hotels and tea houses on the trails. Most of the tea houses on the trail have already been shut down.

28 Days Annapurna Circuit Trek in just 12 days :

28 years back in 1994 A.D. Halperin and his girlfriend had trekked for 28 days all the way from Besisahar Lamjung to Nayapul Kaski following the trails of Chame, Pisang, Thorangla Pass, Mustang, Tatopani, Ghorepani and Ulleri. This time he and his daughter are planning to complete the same trek in just 12 days. This clearly shows how badly road expansion resulted in constriction of Annapurna Circuit Trek.

Sarcastically he said, "Someday some travel agency might advertise Annapurna Circuit travel in jeep or car with no more trekking. And it might be one of the worst nightmares for the trekking tourism of Nepal."

Halperin and his daughter on trail

Eagerness to meet Nepali sister :

After completing 28 days trek, he and his girlfriend had arrived at Pokhara. Pokhara at that time was very sparsely populated, he recalled that time as, " At that time there were no any concrete buildings as todays. There were only few guest houses at Lakeside, Pokhara. Clean and pristine Phewa Lake, sufficient open spaces and open hearted peoples were the specialties of Pokhara. At present, not only Pokhara itself is narrowed but people here are slowing being narrow minded."

That was the time of autumn. Colors of Dashain and Tihar had already bloomed at Pokhara. Though there were no colorful lights and artificial decorations as present, Pokhara had its own natural beauty of attraction. It has been already more than a month disconnected with their family. There was neither internet nor phone call to talk with their family members. They were in search of a place to buy a postage stamp so they could send a letter to their family. They stopped in front of a small grocery shop where they met Krishna Kafle.

Main day of Tihar, Bhaitika was being celebrated in Pokhara. Halperin was curious to see the colorful tika on forehead and garland of Krishna. Krishna described him about the festival Tihar and the cultural practice of putting tika and garland by sister to brother on this auspicious occasion. He was excited to be part of this festival. Krishna's wife Uma put tika and garland to him. That was the day Halperin got Nepali sister Uma.

Halperin and his Nepali sister Uma back in 1994 A.D.

At that time, there was neither Gmail address nor mobile number to exchange with each other. After completing their stay at Pokhara they went to Banaras and continued their travel for next 2 years. After that they never met their Nepali sister and brother in law.

Father always used to talk about them at home, daughter Aliet shares, "Whenever Nepal used to be the topic of discussion, he wished to meet them again at Pokhara. His dream to come back to Nepal again succeeded but still in doubt whether his second dream will be accomplished or not."

After completing the trek, Halperin was washing to meet them at Pokhara. On the trail, I continued to Tilicho lake but they were directly heading to Mustiang via Thorangla Pass. So, I got separated from them on the way but we exchanged our WhatsApp number to meet other at Pokhara and to hear the remaining story.

28 years isn't a short period of time. Many changes have occurred in Pokhara. During this time frame many have left the city while many were welcomed by the city. There could be a chance that Krishna and his wife could be among those who left the city. On each day I was so eager to hear whether they really got united or it remain just their dream.

They had arrived at Pokhara two days earlier than me. I got a text from Halperin on the way stating that they were reunited happily. I was super excited to meet them to hear more from them.

After I arrived at Pokhara, I headed to Lakeside to meet them. Halperin shared more about their meet with his Nepali sister's family as, "Everything has changed in the last 28 years. Though I couldn't exactly remember the same location, I still had a slight memory of the nearby surroundings. I had shown photos of theirs to the shop owners. I failed a couple of times but on the third try an old man told me he know them. He took us to their place. Now the small shop was converted into a huge trekking shop where I had met them 28 years ago."

It became a miracle for Halperin to meet Krishna Kafle again. He was looking after his trekking shop. Uma prepared tea for both of them and shared the happy moments together.

Krishna Kafle, Halperin and Uma 

Now Halperin is 50 years old. Father of three sons and a daughter, Halperin had gone through many ups and downs in his life. After serving in the army for his country, he continued computer engineering and building construction sectors as a profession. From childhood he was keenly interested in carpentry. So, now he runs a renowned factory in his town where more than 20 workers are deployed.

During his free time he loves travelling. Trekking has been his hobby. This time he couldn't bring his wife to Nepal because of her health complications. Thirst to be in Nepal has not yet been fulfilled for him. Even being here for a couple of times he wishes to come again in Nepal.

At last, well wishers like Halperin visits Nepal again and again but are we able to give justice for their immense love and gratitude towards Nepal. Most of the well renowned trekking trails of Nepal are encroached by the motorable roads. Unmanaged trekking trails, improper waste management and unfair competition among the hotel owners has reduced the reputation of Nepal's trekking market. So, the Government of Nepal, travel agencies, hotel associations and all the concerned authorities should conjointly work together for the management of trekking trails.

Then and now in Thorangla Pass 5416 Mt.
First photo : Halperin and his girlfriend back in 1994 A.D.
Second photo : Halperin and his daughter in 2022